The journal · 10 stories · written in Jaipur
सफ़र की डायरी
Month-by-month weather, the six-day Golden Triangle we actually drive, permits and altitude for Ladakh, ten cities and what to eat first in each. No listicles, no sponsored hotels — these are the notes we send friends before they land.
Guides · Itineraries · Culture · Food · Tips
Photo: Arshiya Urveeja Bose · CC BY 2.0
A tested ten-day route from Guwahati through Kaziranga's rhino grasslands to the satras of Majuli, then across the Khasi hills to root bridges, Nohkalikai Falls and the glass water of the Umngot, with costs, permits and honest driving times.
9 more stories
और भी कहानियाँ
Guides to one place, day-by-day itineraries, the culture behind the calendar, and the practical answers we give on WhatsApp twenty times a week.
· Culture · 6 min
One full day on the ghats of Banaras, hour by hour: the pre-dawn boat, the walk from Assi to Manikarnika, the lanes behind Kashi Vishwanath, the kachori and malaiyo worth queueing for, and where to sit for the evening aarti.
· Culture · 5 min
A year of Indian festivals arranged by month, with where each one is at its most vivid, how far ahead to book, and what actually happens on the ground, from Thrissur Pooram's elephants to Hornbill in Nagaland and Dev Deepawali on the Ganga.
· Guide · 6 min
DEVGAMAN is based in Jaipur, so this is the guide we give friends: the order to do the forts in, which bazaar sells what, the kachori and lassi worth queueing for, and the half-day drives most visitors never hear about.
· Food · 6 min
A working eater's route through ten Indian cities, from Chandni Chowk at dawn to Indore's Sarafa Bazaar at midnight. One anchor dish per city, the lanes and stalls that make it, what it costs, and how to eat street food without losing a day.
· Tips · 6 min
Everything we tell first-time travellers before they land: how many places to attempt, what a SIM card and a day of cash actually cost, how to eat street food safely, what to wear into a temple, and the four scams worth recognising.
· Itinerary · 5 min
A day-by-day plan for Delhi, Agra and Jaipur that fixes the two mistakes most first trips make: too little time in Delhi and too much time on the Agra to Jaipur road. Includes ticket prices, closing days and drive times.
· Itinerary · 5 min
Everything that decides whether a Ladakh drive works: which highway to enter on, how many days to give altitude before Khardung La, what permits cost, when the passes open and close, and a tested twelve-day loop from Leh to Tso Moriri.
· Guide · 6 min
India is not one climate but six, from a Himalayan cold desert at 3,500 metres to hills that take eleven metres of rain a year. Here is the whole calendar, month by month, with the regions, roads and parks that open and close with it.
· Guide · 6 min
How to book a kettuvallam without regret: which jetty to start from, what a night on board actually costs in rupees, the canals worth asking your crew for, what gets cooked on the stern, and the months when Vembanad looks its best.
18 of 54 destinations, most written about first
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