CityDelhi
Delhi
Eight cities stacked on one river plain, still being built
- Ideal stay
- 3 days
- Best time
- October to March; winter fog can delay flights in late December and January.
Union territory · North India
केंद्र शासित प्रदेशउत्तर भारत
Eight cities of empire, Sufi qawwali and Chandni Chowk kebabs
The place
परिचय
Delhi has been built and rebuilt at least eight times, and the layers are all still standing. Three World Heritage Sites, the Qutub Minar, Humayun's Tomb and the Red Fort, sit within an hour of each other, and the food runs from Mughal nihari in Old Delhi to Lutyens-era clubs in the new city.
Delhi is not one city but a sequence of capitals stacked along the Yamuna. The Qutub Minar, begun in 1199, rises seventy-three metres beside an iron pillar that has resisted rust for over 1,600 years. Humayun's Tomb of 1570 introduced the garden tomb to India and rehearsed the ideas the Taj Mahal would perfect. Shah Jahan's Red Fort and Jama Masjid anchor Shahjahanabad, where Chandni Chowk's lanes still divide into specialist markets, and Paranthe Wali Gali and Karim's are worth the crush. On Thursday evenings, qawwals sing at the Nizamuddin dargah exactly as they have since the fourteenth century. New Delhi is the last layer: Lutyens and Baker laid out Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Secretariats and the axis to India Gate in the 1920s and 1930s. Between them are Lodi Gardens' tombs, Mehrauli's archaeological park, the Baha'i Lotus Temple and Dilli Haat's craft stalls. Signature days pair Old Delhi on foot with Humayun's Tomb and Hazrat Nizamuddin at dusk.
What it is famous for
पहचान
1 place we travel to
गंतव्य
Every Delhi destination we plan journeys around, with the best months and the ideal stay for each.
CityDelhi
Eight cities stacked on one river plain, still being built
Delhi tour packages
यात्राएँ
3 of our routes pass through Delhi. Each one is a starting point — tell us your days and we reshape it.
6 days · 5 nightsEasy · Best Oct–Mar
Delhi's tombs, Agra's marble and Jaipur's pink grid in six days
Route: Delhi → Agra → Fatehpur Sikri → Jaipur
18 days · 17 nightsModerate · Best Oct–Nov
Eighteen days up the spine of India, from the cape to the valley
Route: Kanyakumari → Madurai → Hampi → Hyderabad +6 more
21 days · 20 nightsModerate · Best Nov–Feb
Three weeks down the whole length of India, Delhi to Chennai
Route: Delhi → Agra → Jaipur → Udaipur +6 more
Time it right
त्योहार
MarThe first day of Shawwal, once the crescent is sighted at the end of Ramadan. The Islamic calendar moves about eleven days earlier each year, so Eid falls in March through 2027 and in February from 2028.
The morning that ends a month of fasting: white kurtas, the embrace given three times, and sheer khurma before anything else. Old Delhi's Jama Masjid, Hyderabad's Mecca Masjid and Srinagar's Hazratbal hold the largest congregations, and the night bazaars beforehand are as good as the day.
Delhi · Uttar Pradesh · Telangana
Eat here
खानपान
VegetarianDelhi
Slow-cooked chickpeas darkened with tea and dry mango, served with a balloon of fried bhatura, raw onion, green chilli and pickle. Delhi eats it for breakfast, most famously at Sita Ram Diwan Chand in Paharganj and at the Kamla Nagar stalls, always with a glass of sweet or salted lassi.
Non-vegDelhi
Tandoori chicken finished in a tomato gravy loosened with butter and cream, invented at Moti Mahal in Daryaganj by Punjabi cooks who came to Delhi after Partition. It is mild, faintly sweet, and meant to be eaten with naan or rumali roti rather than rice. Order half a plate and share.
From the journal
पत्रिका

· Food · 6 min
A working eater's route through ten Indian cities, from Chandni Chowk at dawn to Indore's Sarafa Bazaar at midnight. One anchor dish per city, the lanes and stalls that make it, what it costs, and how to eat street food without losing a day.

· Tips · 6 min
Everything we tell first-time travellers before they land: how many places to attempt, what a SIM card and a day of cash actually cost, how to eat street food safely, what to wear into a temple, and the four scams worth recognising.

· Itinerary · 5 min
A day-by-day plan for Delhi, Agra and Jaipur that fixes the two mistakes most first trips make: too little time in Delhi and too much time on the Agra to Jaipur road. Includes ticket prices, closing days and drive times.
9 more in North India
पड़ोसी राज्य
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Golden Temple langar, five rivers and mustard fields in flower
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Desert forts, lake palaces and colour that refuses to fade
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Taj marble, Varanasi ghats and Awadhi kebabs at midnight
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Char Dham shrines, Ganga rapids and alpine flower meadows
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Le Corbusier's grid, a rock garden built from waste
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Shikaras on Dal Lake, Mughal gardens and chinar autumns
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Cold desert passes, Indus monasteries and skies full of stars