Golden Triangle Classic

Airport pickup and a slow start in Lutyens' Delhi. By mid-morning you are in Shahjahanabad: the courtyard of Jama Masjid, then a cycle-rickshaw through the wire-tangled lanes of Chandni Chowk for jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala and mutton burra at Karim's behind the mosque. Late afternoon at Humayun's Tomb, the 1570 garden tomb that set the pattern for the Taj, as the sandstone reddens.

Morning at Qutb Minar, where the 73-metre victory tower begun in 1193 stands beside a fourth-century iron pillar that has never rusted, then a guided walk through Mehrauli Archaeological Park to Balban's tomb and the Jamali Kamali mosque. Afternoon along Kartavya Path and India Gate, and tea in Lodhi Garden among fifteenth-century Sayyid and Lodi tombs. On Thursdays, qawwali at Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah after sunset.

Leave after breakfast for 233 kilometres on the Yamuna Expressway, about three and a half hours to Agra. Afternoon inside Agra Fort, walking from the Jahangiri Mahal to the marble Musamman Burj where Shah Jahan spent his last eight years looking downriver at the tomb he built. At dusk cross to Mehtab Bagh on the far bank for the Taj in profile, then petha and kebabs in Sadar Bazaar.

At the east gate before sunrise, when the marble moves from grey to rose to white and the pietra dura inlay of jasper, carnelian and lapis starts to catch light. Two unhurried hours inside, then breakfast back at the hotel. Late morning at Itmad-ud-Daulah, the tomb Nur Jahan finished in 1628 for her father and the first Mughal building faced entirely in marble. Afternoon free, or an inlay workshop with a family of Agra artisans.

Check out early for the 40-kilometre drive to Fatehpur Sikri, Akbar's capital from 1571 to 1585, given up when the water ran short. Walk the Diwan-i-Khas with its single carved pillar, the Panch Mahal's five diminishing storeys and the marble dargah of Salim Chishti in the Jama Masjid courtyard. Lunch near Bharatpur, then 205 kilometres on to Jaipur, about four hours, stopping at the Chand Baori stepwell at Abhaneri and its 3,500 steps.

Out by eight for Amber Fort, eleven kilometres north, to reach the Sheesh Mahal while the mirror work still catches low sun. Down past Panna Meena ka Kund and Jal Mahal into the walled city for the 27-metre Samrat Yantra sundial at Jantar Mantar, the City Palace and Hawa Mahal from a rooftop opposite. Afternoon in Johari Bazaar for gems and block prints, dal baati churma, then the evening flight out of Jaipur.