CityLadakh
Leh
Ladakh's high desert capital of palaces, gompas and prayer flags
- Ideal stay
- 3 days
- Best time
- May to September for open roads and clear skies; January to February for the Chadar trek and frozen lakes
North India · Lake
A high blue lake on the Changthang where nomads still graze

Photo: Tanay Kibe · CC BY-SA 2.0
Best: Jun–Sep
The Changthang is the western edge of the Tibetan plateau, a country of salt flats, cold marsh and blue lakes at over 4,500 m, and Tso Moriri is its most beautiful water. The lake is 26 km long and about 4 km wide, fed by snowmelt streams from the Mentok and Lungser peaks and drained by nothing, so its shore is ringed with white mineral crust. Korzok, on the northwest bank at about 4,560 m, is one of the highest permanent villages in the world; its Drukpa Kagyu monastery is about three centuries old and holds the Korzok Gustor festival with masked dances in July or August.
The Changpa who live here follow their herds of pashmina goats and yaks between the lake and the Rupshu valleys, and their black rebo tents still dot the plain. The lake is a Ramsar wetland and one of the few breeding grounds in India of the black-necked crane; bar-headed geese and great crested grebes share the marshes at the southern end, and kiang graze the flats. The drive from Leh follows the Indus through Upshi and the hot springs of Chumathang, crossing at Mahe bridge to climb past Sumdo, about 220 km and seven hours.
The return can loop past Tso Kar, the salt lake, and the Puga geothermal valley to join the Manali highway. A night here is cold, silent and very high; the reward is a dawn with the lake gone still and the peaks doubled in it.
Best Jun–Sep
June to September; July to August for Korzok Gustor and nesting birds.
Give Tso Moriri 2 days and it repays the time; with fewer you are choosing between Korzok village and Korzok Monastery on the shore and Dawn reflections of Mentok Kangri in the lake. We build the hours around the weather — early starts when it is hot, long afternoons when it is not.
On the ground
The days we would actually plan for you, in the order that suits the light.
At the table
Getting there
Leh airport is 220 km (about 7 hours) via Upshi, Chumathang and Mahe; there is no railhead; the loop via Tso Kar and Tanglang La joins the Manali to Leh highway.
Airport pickups, station transfers and the driver for the days here are all part of what we arrange — including the hour you should leave, which is usually earlier than you think.
Next door
Places that join Tso Moriri without a long drive — the way a real week is built.
CityLadakh
Ladakh's high desert capital of palaces, gompas and prayer flags
LakeLadakh
A 134 km lake that changes colour by the hour
ValleyLadakh
Cliff monasteries, a frozen river walk and Ladakh's remotest valley
MonasteryLadakh
One of Ladakh's oldest gompas above a valley they call moonland
1 journey
8 days · 7 nightsChallenging · Best Jun–Sep
Eight days over 5,000-metre passes to Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri
Route: Leh → Nubra Valley → Pangong Tso → Tso Moriri
From the journal

· Itinerary · 5 min
Everything that decides whether a Ladakh drive works: which highway to enter on, how many days to give altitude before Khardung La, what permits cost, when the passes open and close, and a tested twelve-day loop from Leh to Tso Moriri.
Before you ask
Photograph of Tso Moriri: Tanay Kibe · CC BY-SA 2.0
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