A sugar trader named P. Barron rowed across Naini Lake in 1841 and built the first house; within two decades it was the summer capital of the North-Western Provinces, and by 1880 it had a boat club, Sherwood College and a landslip that killed 151 and taught the town to terrace its slopes. The lake is the reason for everything.
Naina Devi temple at its north end, rebuilt after that landslip, is a Shakti Peeth where Sati's eyes fell, and the Nanda Devi fair in September fills the Flats with Kumaoni drums. Mallital and Tallital, the two ends, are joined by the Mall on one shore and the shady Thandi Sadak on the other, and the town's rhythm is a loop: rowing boat in the morning light, a ropeway ride to Snow View for the line of Nanda Devi and Trishul, a walk or pony to Tiffin Top on Ayarpatta hill, tea at the Boat House Club, and evening on the Mall with Kumaoni singori in a malu leaf. Raj Bhavan, a Victorian Gothic pile of 1899 modelled on Buckingham Palace, has a golf course you can play.
Naina Peak at 2,615 m is the top of the bowl. Around the town are the lake district: Bhimtal, Sattal's seven lakes full of birds, Naukuchiatal's nine corners, Pangot and Kilbury for Himalayan woodpeckers, and Mukteshwar's fruit orchards facing the snow. Jim Corbett grew up here at Gurney House.
Nainital is the softest introduction to the Himalaya, and Kumaoni food is the reason to stay a day longer.