In 1931 the mountaineer Frank Smythe, coming down from Kamet in bad weather, walked into a valley so thick with flowers that he wrote a book about it, and the name stuck. The Pushpawati river runs its length, glaciers hang at its head, and from mid-July to mid-August the meadows bloom in waves: first white and yellow, then the blue Himalayan poppy, the pink of Impatiens, the maroon hood of the cobra lily, and on the high scree the Brahma kamal, Uttarakhand's state flower. Joan Margaret Legge, a Kew botanist who fell to her death collecting here in 1939, has a small grave in the valley.
It became a national park in 1982 and joined Nanda Devi as a World Heritage Site in 2005. The walk starts at Govindghat on the Badrinath road: a shared jeep to Pulna, then 9 km up the Lakshman Ganga gorge to Ghangaria, a mule-and-pilgrim village at 3,049 m that empties each night. From there the valley gate is 3 km on, and the flowers begin at the first bridge and run 7 km to the glacier.
No one may stay inside; you go in after 7 am and are out by 5 pm. The same base serves Hemkund Sahib at 4,329 m, a star-shaped gurudwara beside a lake where Guru Gobind Singh meditated in a previous life, and where langar is served in the snow. A day here is mist, sudden sun, wet boots and the strange joy of flowers at glacier height.