Tirupati

Tirumala's temple to Venkateswara, a form of Vishnu, is the most visited shrine in India and among the richest religious institutions in the world, and everything about it is built for scale. The hill road climbs 22 kilometres from Tirupati town across seven ridges of the Seshachalam range to about 853 metres; the older way up is on foot, 3,550 steps from Alipiri or the steeper Srivari Mettu path, both walked barefoot by pilgrims who smear turmeric and vermilion on the risers. The temple itself is ancient, carrying inscriptions from Pallava, Chola and Vijayanagara rulers, its sanctum crowned by the Ananda Nilayam vimana sheathed in gold.

Darshan is organised by token: free Sarva Darshan, timed Sudarshanam slots, or paid special entry, with waits running from two hours to twelve depending on the day, spent in fenced compartments where you will be fed. Most pilgrims first shave their heads at the Kalyana Katta, then queue, then eat the Tirupati laddu, a besan and cashew sweet with a geographical indication tag turned out in lakhs each day. Around the pilgrimage there is more: Sri Padmavathi Temple at Tiruchanur, the natural rock arch at Silathoranam beside the hill, the Vijayanagara-era palaces of Chandragiri Fort, and Kapila Theertham where a waterfall drops beside a cave shrine.